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Drilling out fuel tank rivets and starting the fuel senders

Today I started with a clean up of my shed. It was looking dusty and untidy so I started putting things away, throwing things out and then sweeping the floor. After about 1.5 hours it looked like a different shed. Much neater and uncluttered.

I then went to the fuel tanks and double checked for bad rivets. I drilled out the bad ones without any problems encountered.

Drilled out fuel tank rivets

As I have run out of fuel tank sealant I put the tanks aside and got the fuel senders out. After looking for a couple of white boxes (as everything else is is white boxes) I found the senders in these blue boxes. Boy vision strikes again!

Fuel senders

I trial fitted the fuel sender unit on the flange and noticed that the holes weren’t lining up. At first I thought I had been given the wrong type but then I thought of all the other times I had encountered something not fitting and eventually found out the part was in the wrong position/orientation. So I decided to rotate the sender around to check if the holes came into alignment at a particular position – sure enough, they did. Good on ya Vans! I love the way things are made “Gav-proof” in this kit.

Sender holes misaligned

I then referred to the drawings and grabbed the float. After placing a mark on the arm 3″ from the float I bent the arm 90 degrees around a thin metal rod. After fitting the sender onto the cover plate, and fitting the cover plate to the end rib, I noticed that the arm was too long to get into the space where the sender was located. I ended up trimming about 1″ off the end so I could get the arm into the space. I then moved the sender swingarm to the vertical position (tank full) and held the float/arm alongside the sender in the full fuel position. I then used the swingarm position on the sender to mark where I needed to cut the arm on the float. After cutting the arm I rounded off the end on the Scotchbright wheel and fitted it.

Sender float clash

I then swung the float along its arc to check for any clashes and I found the float hitting the anti-hookup guide.

Float clash

So I grabbed the other float and bent it 90 degrees the opposite direction so that the float was facing more rearward and not hitting the guide. This removed the lash with the anti hookup guide but I noticed that the loop aroumd the float would sometimes hit the skin if I swung the arm quickly. I thought this would eventually punch a hole through the skin so I ended up sanding the end down using the Scotchbright wheel so that it wouldn’t hit anything. All good.

Float vs skin

I deburred the cover plates then called it a day. Build time 3 hours.

About gstrack

Husband and father of 2. Control & Instrumentation Engineer. Flying nut. Gadget geek.


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